Cuenca is beautiful all of the time.
But it is especially magical en la Madrugada (the early morning light).
Cuenca is beautiful all of the time.
But it is especially magical en la Madrugada (the early morning light).
The Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes at 5-24 Calle Larga has 15,000 Ecuadorian archaeological pieces, of which 5,000 are on display. 10,000 other pieces are in reserve, and can be visited by appointment..
The founder of the Aboriginal Cultures Museum is Juan Cordero Íñiguez, a former Minister of Education and native Cuencano, who started collecting artifacts in the 1970s. In 2002, the museum opened on Calle Larga, in a 100+ year old house which used to serve as a stable and inn , which housed persons bringing produce to Cuenca from the countryside. It has thick, adobe walls and a tile roof with a wrought-iron huaischapai cross.
It houses artifacts from the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras; and the Valdivia, Panzaleo, Puruhá, Cazhaloma, Tacalzhapa, Guangala, Jama Coaque, Tolila, Machalilla, Narrio, and Incan cultures.
The exhibits are arranged by time, ranging from the stone-age, dating from as far back as 13,000 BCE, to the pre-colonial period; and geography, focusing on major cultures from the Pacific Coast, the Andes, and the Amazon Basin. The collection holds pottery, jewelry, and carved figures from more than 10 distinct Ecuadorian cultures. It also includes examples of Incan pottery.
There is a very helpful self-guided museum guide, which will lead you through the 15 rooms. My photos show pieces with distinct artistry I love. The guide can give you very detailed and thorough information.
Bead necklaces and an oyster shell necklace.
In the overall scheme of things, the Incan civilization was relatively recent. (1438-1533) In the 15 chronologically arranged rooms in this museum, you do not come to the Incan culture until the 14th room.
The 15th and last room displays the use of metals which came about with the beginning of the arrival of the Spaniards.
The museum has one of the very best gift shops in all of Cuenca.
12-40 Simon Bolivar
This house with the golden facade was completed in 1917, but it’s construction took more than 20 years. Since then, it has been the home of the lawyer Aurelio Aguilar Vásquez; headquarters of the Municipal Union, and is now the Multiple Center, providing medical assistance to Municipal employees. It was restored by the City of Cuenca in 2017.
The restoration was done in two phases. Phase One was the restoration of the old house. Phase Two was the construction of a modern three story building in the rear where there used to be an orchard for the house. That part is now used for the medical facilities.
Photo taken from the second floor looking down. There is a large space in the lobby which is made of “pisos de huesos”. Floors of bones. There were 1,600 pieces of bone in the original, many of which needed to be replaced.
Restored wallpaper of French origin.
Many of the walls had been painted white. Surveys were made, and old photos were used to discover the murals. Twelve murals were recovered.
View from the balcony of Calle Simon Bolivar, and Santo Cenaculo.
The outer façade is made of brick, and the internal walls are made of adobe, brick, and bahareque.
Gustavo Montesinos built this seven story house in 1915 for his wife Isabel González and family of 12 children.
La Casa de los Arcos graces the banks of the Tomebamba River. In 2011 it was one of the sites for the Cuenca Art Bienal.
The house sits alongside the beautiful 3 de Noviembre path, on the Tomebamba River. I had always thought this was the front door, but Kabir Montesinos told me no, this was the back door, where horses would pull up delivering goods for the household.
The front door to the house was actually entered here, on Tarqui and La Condamine. The house was built from the top floor here, first, and then down seven flights to the river!
This was the front courtyard. The walls are covered with photos of the Montesinos González family The glass rooftop is relatively new. Previously, rainwater just fell into the courtyard, and flowed down built-in canals, and out to the river.
These are some of the canals inside the house used for rainwater.
View from the top of La Condamine and El Vado.
Looking down on the balcony, which is on the fifth level. Many family weddings and festivities took place here.
Kabir Montesinos uncle told him that the children used to take a piece of cardboard, and slide down the stairs – of all seven floors!
In 1970 the property was acquired by Guillermo Vázquez and Octavio Muñoz. Inside the house is this crypt which keeps Muñoz’s remains. There have been stories of ghosts in the house!
The building was purchased by the University of Cuenca in 2004, and now includes some offices of the University.
East side of the building.
Left photo – Casa del Arcos 1950. Right photo – Raquel Montesinos Gonzalez, on one of the house balconies.
These are some old photos showing the embankment before the house was built, and then afterwards. It was quite an engineering feat!
This area is called El Barranco del Tomebamba. where there are many beautiful homes built along the river.
Calle La Condamine
The Casa de la Lira is a beautifully restored house on La Condamine Street in the El Vado neighborhood. It possesses elements of both the Colonial and Republican Eras. It is famous for the elegant green glass brick façade, with a very noticeable Lira (Lyre) on the balustrade of the rooftop.
The original house was purchased in 1878 by Rosa Rodriquez. In 1894 Luis Paute Rodriquez bought the house, and in 1935 built the facade that is there now, with the Lira.
The Lira was symbolic of the music and poetry and theatre of the epoch, in support of writers, musicians and artists. There are several houses in Cuenca that display a lira on their façade or somewhere inside, but none of them is as impressive or visible as this one.
The Lira was symbolic of the music and poetry and theatre of the era. Luis Paute constructed a stage for poetry and theatre. Inside this house, a kind of conservatory was established in which piano and other instruments were taught. It also had a concert hall where opera pieces, zarzuelas, classical and popular music concerts were performed.
A photo of the “Lyra” on top of the roof, being restored in 2016.
The most recent renovation was from 2016-2019. There are now large open spaces on both the lower and upper floor. The hopes are to have music performances, and spaces for other performing arts, after covid restrictions have ended. This is in memoriam of the music and concerts that filled this building long ago.
In 1978 there was a huge fire in the building. Only the very front of the building remained intact. Wherever possible, those elements have been restored.
During the restoration of the building, several ancient city water canals were uncovered underneath the flooring. These have been carefully restored, and can be seen flowing under the first level of the house.
During the restoration, these colonial era pots were uncovered. They were left in their original state.
The balconies in the front upper level have a wonderful view over the Tomebomba River.
There are tile and river pebble floors in the front hallway. This original restored wallpaper is a juxtaposition to the modern office space. The balconies overlook La Condamine Street, and the Cruz del Vado, one of seven crosses from Colonial Days which delineated the boundaries of the city of Cuenca.
Started by Ecuadorian poet Remigio Crespo Toral, in association with Alfonso Moreno Mora in 1919, the Lira Festival was established in the city at that time, attracting poets and lovers of poetry to a country gathering held annually on the last Saturday in May. The poets would talk about their compositions and award a prize for the best poem. The winner would be gain the temporary name of “vate” (bard, poet) and would be given a laurel crown. The first festivity took place at the Buen Vecino country estate, owned by Remigio Crespo Toral,in May 1919.
Originally, the Lira Festival was an annual literary event, held in Cuenca between 1919 and 1950, in which poets were awarded for their works. The Festival was re-invigorated in 2011, and was held every two years in November, in Cuenca. The festival is four days of meetings with poets from Ecuador, Mexico, and the South American continent, and there is an award of $30,00 and $5,000 to two selected authors, whose poems have been submitted to the competition. The last festival was held in 2019, which was the 100 year celebration of the inception of the festival.
When I first heard of Area 45, I thought it was the numerical description of a city neighborhood. But instead, it is the area where five future Presidents of Ecuador met after signing the Constitution of 1845. It is full of colorful Colonial and Republic era homes, that are a more modest size than the homes in El Centro.
The faces on the gate are all wearing blue masks!
La Guarida is a popular restaurant and performance space in Area 45. Photo on the left is La Guarida before restoration.
Andrés Zambran is the owner of La Guardia. In addition to being an incredible chef, he also arranges for amazing movies and music. He is also the President of the Area 45 Neighborhood Association.
Hanging on the wall is a work of art by Eduardo Segovia.
The gate to Eduardo Segovia’s house. He is a long time resident of Area 45. Andres Zambrano is trying to convince the City to have Maestro Segovia create murals in the neighborhood.
On the wall of Ivan Encalada Pottery Studio in Area 45.
A panaderia and a pastereria – my favorites!
Casa del Alfareros. This is the building where the reception was held following the signing of the Constitution of 1845. It is now used as a City Cultural Center, to encourage the art and tradition of pottery.
Cuenca had a tradition of different neighborhoods representing different trades and tradesmen. Area 45 was the neighborhood of pottery.
“Neighborhood of Convention 45. History, Tradition, and Culture since 1845.”
“Heladeria Sari”. This ice cream store sells nothing but LIME ice cream, and it is Delicious!
On the left photo are “Lima Balconies” which were, and are, very popular in Lima, Peru.
Area 45 is a very colorful and authentic neighborhood of Cuenca.
House of the Potters / Mariscal Lamar y Calle Convencion 45
Previously called the House of the Convention of 45, this building is now called the El Alfarero (Potters) Cultural Center. The history dates back to the Convention of 1845, in which Ecuador’s 4th Constitution was drawn up. The actual constitution was not drawn up in this house, but it is the space where there was a celebration afterwards. In this constitution, the term of office of the President of Ecuador was limited to four years, instead of the eight years allowed previously.
The current building was restored in 2012. Beautiful wood floors and thick adobe walls remain in the restoration.
This neighborhood also had a strong cultural tradition of potters and pottery. La Casa del Alfarero has as a goal the strengthening and continuation of this trade.
A treasured very old work of pottery.
It is located in the “Y” intersection of Mariscal Lamar and Calle Convencion 45. The murals on the neighboring walls reflect the history of pottery in the neighborhood.
Photos of the building before restoration.
Many artistic workshops are held in the Casa del Alfarero, including pottery, ceramics, drawing, and painting.
Gran Colombia and Benigno Malo
Originally this was the first public hospital in Cuenca from 1747 to 1822. From 1882 it functioned as a school for girls and for a short period of time also accommodated the library. It was known as the Central School due to its location in the city center.
At this moment there is an excellent exhibition in this historic building celebrating Cuenca’s 200 year Bicentennial of Independence from Spain. There is a beautiful exhibit of Cuenca clothing in one of the main halls.
It currently has a library, internet cubicles, auditorium, cafeteria, two rooms for artistic workshops and several rooms for exhibits.
This building is the work of the German monk Juan Bautista Stiehle. It was one of the first civic buildings erected by Stiehle and was specially requested by the city council. This is a photograph of Juan Bautista Stiehle.
In 2009, during a renovation under the courtyard, old water canals were unearthed, along with many old skeletons buried there.
“El Gran Libertador – Simon Bolivar / Jose Maria Vazquez de Noboa, in 1820 the first President of the Republic of Cuenca.
Shown is a copy of the Constitution of Cuenca. The original copy is in the Museum of Remigio Crespo Toral.
Located on a corner, the building has two entrances, both of which lead via hallways to the same central courtyard..
Las huérfanas – the girl orphans.
The Plaza de San Francisco Market is a wild colorful combination of weaving, basketry, ceramics, ironwork, wooden utensils, kitchen cups and plates, pots, plastic trinkets, religious paraphernalia, guinea pig roasters, sweaters, ponchos, rugs, weavings, and more. It has a very storied history. But it hasn’t looked the way it looks now, even since I have been here….
Almost since it’s beginning in 1558, it has been a place where the people brought their products to sell.
From the 1700’s and on, it became the preferred location for fairs and carnivals as well as executions which were a form of entertainment at the time. After Cuenca’s independence in 1820, dozens of enemy soldiers went to the gallows in the plaza.
The most recent renovation of the Plaza was unveiled in January 2019. There were many years of conflict between the merchants, vendors, politicians and local Cuencanos before this renovation was completed. The renovated plaza has 96 units for vendors, distributed around the perimeter of the open square, which is quite a different layout from the very crowded use of the square previously.
In the 1800’s the plaza underwent a transformation when Cuenca officials decided to “clean up” the Plaza de Armas, today’s Parque Calderon, and ordered all commercial activity relocated to San Francisco Plaza. The relocation of the Plaza de Armas vendors caused a minor uproar as they tried to find space with the vendors already in San Francisco Plaza.
The plaza saw another big change in 1953 when the city established the Diez de Agosto market two blocks to the south, on Calle Larga. Most of the plaza’s food vendors relocated to the new market but a few remained. During the next decade, the commerce of the plaza focused on clothing and household goods.
In the 1950’s the plaza served as the city bus station and was home to Cuenca’s first gas station.
City photo) of the San Francisco Plaza renovation.
In addition to the vendors on the plaza, there are many stores and shopping center around the plaza. It is an excellent place to purchase Ecuadorian crafts and merchandise.
Panama hats have always been made in Ecuador! It is a misnomer from the days when Teddy Roosevelt wore an Eucadorian straw hat at the Panama Canal, and the style caught on in a big way!
There is now a fountain in the center, and plenty of space for concerts and music and performances. The paving stones were preserved for the floor of the square, a characteristic material of the streets of old Cuenca.
This Christmas the San Francisco Plaza was the location for Cuenca’s huge electric Christmas tree. The Plaza was the place to be to see Christmas lights with the backdrop of the New Cathedral domes.
Overlooking San Francisco Plaza…..